DIY: How to sew a French Jilbab

I fell in LOVE the French jilbeb after I read about them on Old School Hijabi's blog.  She is THE expert on them, as far as I'm concerned.  ;)  I also would rather make anything I can instead of buying, so I decided to figure out how to sew a French jilbeb so I could have one. 

She believes, and I tend to agree, that they are a perfect garment for a jilbeb in western culture. They are easy to move in, come in amazing colors, cover Western clothing well (so underneath you can wear your favorite jeans and t-shirt), and they identify you as Muslim.  All important points for wearing a jilbeb.

I just recently started wearing jalabib.  I didn't realize before that it was a requirement of hijab. (If you want to know more about wearing jalabib (plural of jilbab) in general and as a requirement from Allah, see my post on hijab and this article.)   

In my quest to start wearing the jalabib, I thought about buying the French jilbeb style, but I always have the theory "Why should I buy when I can make?" I love a challenge!  Plus I must admit to being pretty cheap, both from necessity and as a general personality trait, LOL.

I did buy two secondhand ones I thought were French jalabib from someone on Facebook, but they turned out to be khimar that they added sleeves and the forehead tie to.  Not what I was looking for, but examining them has helped me understand how the forehead tie works and the actual vast differences in design construction that can exist between different styles of overhead garments.

Looking at pics on Old School Hijabi's blog and on sites where you can buy them (see Old School Hijabi's blog for a list of online stores) I got a pretty good idea of how they are constructed and what they look like.  I also found this pic on pinterest: 

Unfortunately, the blog where this image is originally from is gone.  I cannot give credit to the owner.  If you know whose drawing this is, let me know and I will gladly give them credit.

I didn't actually follow this diagram much, but I did find it very helpful.

Here are some pics (all from Old School Hijabi, thank you!) that helped me visualize how they are made and how they are worn:

I love this one because it shows that this style looks good on ALL shapes and sizes of women.

This one shows how the forehead tie looks and is attached.

This one shows that the seams go down the TOP of the arm.  When I figured that out, it all made sense.

This one show that you can wear them with niqab as well.

Look how much fun you can have in them!

This one is VERY similar to the one I made, even the color is the same!

So pretty and elegant!  That is close to the color of fabric I have for my next one.

Fun for more than one!

So cool!

I just LOVE them!

After about two weeks of thinking through how the garment works and what the pattern should look like, I decided one afternoon to dive in.  

In all, this project took me about 10 hours.  It would have taken less (more like 6 or 7) if I hadn't had to redo the sleeves.

NOTE:

This is an easy sewing project especially compared to sewing Western style clothes, but you still need some sewing experience.  This is a tutorial for making a French jilbab, NOT for learning how to sew.  You should be familiar with basic sewing techniques, making an elastic hem (for the cuffs), setting in a simple sleeve, hemming, and simple altering of a pattern for your own size.  I endeavor to describe things as much as possible and give links for other tutorials.  Please read the entire tutorial through a few times before attempting it and I strongly suggest you use cheap fabric for your first try.

First, materials needed:

Fabric: I chose a beautiful green fabric.  I don't really know fabrics, but when I read about the commercial ones being made of fine crepe, this is the fabric I imagine.  I had 3 3/4 yards that was 46" wide.  I bought it at a thrift store for $4.00.  At least 4 yards would have made the sleeve construction much easier and that is the minimum amount I recommend depending on your size.  I also recommend at least 60 inch wide fabric especially if you are plus size.  If gives you more room for your shoulders.  I am 5'4" tall and a size 24.  I made mine to be about calf length.  It is more the length than the width.  If you want one floor length or are tall, you will need more fabric.  Make sure you choose a light fabric (so it isn't too heavy off your head) but not too thin as to show the shape of your body and not see-through!  As I mentioned, various types of polyester crepe are what is normally used.  If you are nervous or are a beginner, I suggest you use a cheaper fabric for your trial run.

matching color thread

tailor's chalk

sewing shears

sewing machine

measuring tape

a pair of socks if desired for sleeve cuffs (I used fancy trouser socks.  But any socks will do.  Consider their thickness (for during warm weather) and if they are a color/pattern you always want on your jilbab.)  If you decide not to have cuffs like that, you will need thin elastic for the cuffs.

Instructions:

First you will need accurate measurements of yourself.  Some of the ones you need are not your normal sewing measurements.

Measurement A: The length you want your jilbab to be measured from the top of your head to the hemline you want.

Measurement B: The widest point on your torso (probably your hips or bust) while sitting (this measurement must be at least 10" less than double the width of your fabric for modesty.  If it isn't, you will need to add another panel of fabric for the body or find wider fabric.)

  

Measurement C: Your upper arm circumference while flexed

Measurement D: The length from one wrist, to the side of your neck, over your head, to the other side of your neck, and to the other wrist with your arms at your sides and then while holding the measuring tape to the top of your head, tilt your head all the way to one side letting the measuring tape ride up your arm.  This ensures you have room to move your head.  (if this length is longer than the width of the fabric, you will need to add sleeves or make your arm holes lower on the body.  I will talk about this later.)

Open the fabric from it's center fold and lay it out folded in half at the top.  Adjust it so it is 8 inches longer at the bottom on one side only.  I laid mine out on my bed.

Fabric laid out on my bed.  Notice the bottom layer is longer than the top at the bottom.  The bottom layer should be 8" longer than the top.  This is to account for the fabric that goes over your head.

I laid out a favorite abaya just to check the length and width.  It was more to make me feel secure than to really measure anything.  I felt better when my measurement showed the same as what the abaya told me.

This drawing shows your fabric laid out as above as well as the beginning measurements I talked about.

Measure from the shorter bottom measurement A.  Mark it with tailors chalk.  Measure and mark multiple times across the fabric to give guides for cutting.  Remember to leave a seam allowance!!! Cut the fabric.

When I measure, I measure exactly and then cut leaving a seam allowance.  NEVER forget your seam allowance!  You can see here I cut about 2 inches above where I measured (the white line from the chalk.)

Measure the center of the fabric.  Mark with chalk.  Measure 5 inches out from the center on each side and mark with chalk.  This is the head/neck hole and is left unstitched.

Measure measurement C plus 4 1/2 inches from the top of the fabric on each edge.  Mark it.  This space is left unstitched for the arms/sleeves.

Sew the shoulders and the sides.

This drawing shows where to sew.  The squiggly lines are the sewing.

Now it is time to deal with the sleeves.  IF the width of the fabric is equal to Measurement D plus 2 inches for the cuff, you do not need to add sleeves.  If it is shorter, you need to add sleeves OR place your sleeve holes lower on the body.

OPTION 1: 

This is not what I did. 

IF the width of your fabric equals Measurement D plus a seam allowance of at least 2 inches to accommodate an elastic cuff , you do not need to add sleeves.  (To be honest, this option will only work for very petite sisters unless you manage to find fabric wider than 60".)

Make an elastic cuffed sleeve by creating a hem casing and threading through the elastic. See this video tutorial (it isn't in English but is easy to follow) and here is another good tutorial.  Now you have your (not-really-a) sleeve.  When you try it on, it should look like the one below (at least in the arm area.)

Version without sleeves.  See how there is no defined "sleeve".  The edge of the fabric is even with the hand opening.

OPTION 2:

I did not do this, either.

If you want sleeves like in the version above BUT your fabric isn't wide enough to equal measurement D plus a 2 inch seam allowance you can do the following:

Divide your measurement D plus 2" in half.  Measure to the center of your fabric.  From the center, measure to the outer edge and then around the corner.  Mark where your measurement falls.  Depending on where the corner of the fabric will lie on your body, you will probably want to cut the corner to a curve.  Make sure you measure the curve, as it will be shorter than going around the corner.

Set your sleeve hole as described above at this new point.  Create elastic cuff sleeves as in Option 1.

SOMETHING TO CONSIDER: 

When you choose this option, you save fabric and don't have to actually make sleeves, BUT when you lift your arms, the hem of the garment will go up.  Make sure you are OK with this and that your arwa will still be covered when the hem goes up.

See how the hem goes up when she lifts her arms?   This is also a version with knit cuffs added to the sleeves.

OPTION 3:

This IS what I did.

A version with sleeves

All you are doing is adding extra width to your fabric and creating a casing for your arm to go through.  Very easy.  As the French jilbab is a very unstructured garment, no fancy sleeve hole shaping needs to be done.  We will simply be sewing on a tube to the main body of fabric.

See how it is simply a tube that extends the fabric so the arms are covered?

Measure and cut out 2 rectangles of fabric:

Length of sleeve: (Measurement D minus width of fabric divided by 2) plus 2 inch seam allowance

Width of sleeve: Measurement C plus 4 1/2 inches plus seam allowance 

If you need to, you can make each sleeve tube from 2 rectangles instead of one.  Just cut out 2 pieces the same length but half the width but still with seam allowances.  You will then have two seams along the sleeve.

Fold a rectangle you just cut in half along the long side (or if you have 2 rectangles, line them up together).  Sew it up along the long side.  You now have a sleeve.  Repeat with the second one.

Sew in the sleeves.  Here is a good tutorial for setting in sleeves.  Ignore what is says about the curved sleeve shape.  Your sleeve is much simpler.  Just be concerned with matching the seam on the sleeve to a seam on the body.  Your sleeve tube should fit exactly inside the hole you left for it.  If it is larger at all, just pleat it a bit at the bottom seam.

For most Western style clothing, the concern is with fitting the body smoothly with the fabric.  That leads to the normal sleeve shape you see in most sewing patterns (just Google "how to attach sleeves images" to see what I mean.)  For Muslim clothing, we do not want to fit the body.  We want to cover it.  So bagginess is our friend.  So there is no need to shape the sleeve or the armhole (or really any other part of this pattern.)  So we can use very basic shapes which are easier to fit together.

Sewn in sleeve.  You can see what took me so much extra time.  I didn't have enough fabric in large enough pieces, so I had to piece together some to make the sleeve.  That is the weird seam you can see in the middle of the sleeve.  Honestly, you really can't see it since the sleeves are so poofy.

Now follow the instructions in OPTION 1 above if you wish to have an elastic cuff OR just do a normal hem on the sleeve end for an open sleeve OR add a pair of knit cuffs as described below.

ADDING KNIT CUFFS:

I liked the idea of a knit cuff on the end of the sleeve.  I could push the sleeve up if I wanted to for wearing a sweater, but would still have coverage.  Important especially since I have a number of short sleeve cardigans I like.  

I do not believe that wearing something over your jilbab negates your hijab UNLESS whatever you wear over it is worn specifically to (or even unintentionally) reveal the shape of your body, which your jilbab should be concealing.  If a coat or sweater is loose and worn over your jilbab, I think it just adds to your jilbab by adding more layers that conceal your shape.

I decided to use a pair of socks for the cuffs since I didn't have any jersey fabric in an appropriate color and I was too cheap to drive 30 mins and spend $ for some. ;)

I looked at using normal knit socks.  I have a HUGE sock collection.  I love unusual ones and collect especially knee highs.  I thought it would be cool to have a funky patterned knee high as the cuff.  BUT, I was concerned about it always matching but even more so, I wanted this to be an all season jilbab.  Normal socks seemed too warm to wear most of the year.

Picking out a pair of socks...

So I chose a discreetly patterned pair of trouser socks.  They will match everything and are cooler in warmer weather.

To add the sock, turn right sides together (sock and sleeve), putting the sock up inside the cuff.  Now sew the fabric to the sock.  BUT, your sock will be smaller than your sleeve.  To fix this, pin your sock into the sleeve in two places across from each other.  Start to sew your seam.  As you sew, pull the sock making it stretch so it is the same width as your sleeve.  Stitch it in place, always keeping it stretched.  When you are done, it will go back to it's normal size, gathering the sleeve sewn to it.  Easy peasy.

See how the sleeve gathers on top of the normal sized sock-now-cuff?

Forehead Tie:

The forehead tie is just a piece that is sewn to the back of the neck hole.  It is worn over the top of your head, tying around it, keeping the jilbab covering your head and neck.  It is actually quite simple.

See how the forehead tie piece is sewn to only one side of the neck hole (the back)?  This diagram doesn't show the sleeves done because I actually did the tie before the sleeves when I made mine.  But it doesn't matter which order you do them in.

Forehead tie seen from the outside back of the jilbab.

Forehead tie and neck hole seen from the front (upside down).

Cut out your forehead tie.  There is no real pattern here.  It should be about 45 inches long.  For the width, I measured from where I wanted the edge to be on my forehead to the top of my head, which was about 6 inches.  I just cut out a folded (along the long edge) piece, making the ends thinner so it is easier to tie. The thickest part in the center should be 10 inches long to match the neck hole opening of the jilbab.

  This how the forehead tie should look before it is sewn on.

Sew along the open edges in two sections.  Start at each end and sew towards the center, leaving an opening of about 1 1/2 inches for turning.

Now turn the tie right side out and iron it flat.

Top stitch carefully along the folded edge.  Be as neat as possible.  This edge will be on your forehead.

Top stitching the tie's front edge.

Now pin the edge with the opening into the backside of the neck hole of your jilbab, right sides together.  Sew the jilbab's neck hole to the tie.  The tie should be sewn to the entire raw edge of the back of the neck hole.

Now fold over and hem the front side of the neck hole.  This will be the edge at your neck or chin.

 Finishing:

It is now time to try it on (like you haven't already!!!  LOL!) I found that the chin hung down on me.  I tried a few things to make it a custom fit and have the chin fit right on mine (I cover my chin and sides of my face.  See my post on hijab for more about that.) but I could never get it right.  Whenever I got the chin right, the sides of my face still showed and that just looked weird!  I gave in and I just pin the sides up, which actually feels more natural and secure than any of the other adjustments I had tried.  From what I have read, it seems that pinning to get a custom fit may be the norm.  Either way, it works for me.

Here you can see how I pinned up the sides.

Now it needs to be hemmed.  YOU MUST MEASURE FOR THE HEM WHILE YOU ARE WEARING IT!  Because the back of the garment gets lifted by your head, you cannot get an accurate hem when it is lying flat.  So you either need help with marking it or come up with a way to mark it on your own.  I have seen people use a string with chalk on it across a doorway but then you need to know how far off the floor you want it.  

There are normally two lengths of hems in commercial ones.  One is floor length and the other is calf length and meant to be worn with a skirt or loose pants.  I made mine calf length.  I like jilbabs where you can see the bottom of my pants or skirt.

Anyway, mark your hem and hem it.

YOU ARE DONE!

MASH'ALLAH!!!

Here are pics of me wearing mine.

First time I wore it.  I wore it to work with a short sleeved open front cardigan and over black pants. 

I also wore a light cotton dupatta, here shown around my neck.  I also wore it as a normal headscarf, over the jilbab, as shown by Old School Hijabi here.

HOW TO WEAR A FRENCH JILBAB:

Once again, check out Old School Hijabi's blog for a great pic tutorial on how to out one of these on.  And below is a good video tut.  It is in French, but you will get the idea, especially if you read OSH's blog first.  Plus, the beautiful blue of her jilbab will have you mesmerized!

I know that OSH and the video above show them wearing an underscarf with their jilbab.  I do not.  I rarely (if ever) wear underscarves of any kind.  I stopped when I noticed my hair was breaking off at my hairline from the friction.  Plus I am very prone to headaches and have a big head so most underscarves are tight and cause me pain.  If people are interested, I can post a tut sometime on how I wear my hijab without an underscarf.

If you are concerned about looking thinner, you will NOT in a French jilbab.  I don't say this to scare you.  But it can be a shock to see yourself in one, especially if you are a plus sized sister.  I know I was shocked.  I loved how I looked in it, but I knew I am not actually "that big".  But it really is just that I am used to seeing myself in more form fitting Western style clothes.  I remind myself that this silhouette is more pleasing to Allah.  :)

Thank you to Old School Hijabi for the pictures and the support!

ALSO: Please share with me pics of your creations!  If you give me permission, I would love to post them so people can see what is all possible with this tut!