Refashion: 15 Minute Kaftan

I love dupattas because of their beautiful colors, fabrics and decorations!  But I do not like to wear them on my head.  There is just too much fabric there.  I am not good at wrapping them and normally end up with a wad of wrapped fabric at my throat choking me!  I hate that.  

So I have all these amazing dupattas I kept telling myself I should resell but I just couldn't do it.  Then I thought up this idea... making them into a kaftan.

This project literally can take you 15 minutes.  This isn't one of those internet promises where the person claiming it is a way more experienced crafter or just suffers from what my family calls "time fantasies".  This literally took me 15 minutes this morning. 

BUT, you must have the right materials and the right kind of fabric for it to be a 15 minute project.  Otherwise it could be longer.

You are basically sewing up the sides of a large dupatta, leaving openings for arms, and cutting a hole for the neck.  Viola.  That is it.  You probably don't even need to keep reading.

A dupatta is a type of veil worn mainly in India, Pakistan, Nepal, Sri Lanka, and Bangladesh.  They are extremely beautiful, being very colorful and/or richly embroidered and/or beaded.  Usually they are of quite thin fabric since the areas where they are from are commonly quite hot.  But they also come in thicker fabrics like woven wool as it can be quite cold in the mountains in the winter.

I have bought all of my dupattas off of eBay (except the pink one I used here, that was a gift from a friend).  There are some nice sellers that specialize in selling vintage items from India.  I have gotten dupattas for only $7 apiece for simpler ones and even as little as $25 for very fancy ones.

CBazaar is another affordable place to buy dupattas.  I have never purchased from them and cannot comment on their service.  If you have dealt with them or have any other good sources, please share in the comments.

Dupattas are not always worn as hijab. Meaning they are not always worn to conceal what a hijabi wants to conceal.  Many of them are thin fabric that can become form fitting (especially as a kaftan) or are see through.  So keep that in mind when buying them or planning how you will wear them.  A see through one may be beautiful over a long-sleeved, full-length abaya but not so much over a shirt and pants.  One that is thin and hugs your curves too much may work if worn under a long cardigan and layered.

Dupattas normally are part of a pants set called a Salwar Kameez.  The Salwar are loose cotton pants worn under the Kameez, which is a tunic (or longer) length top.  The dupatta is then worn draped alternately around the head, shoulders, arms and chest. 

In Pakistan and India, it is seen as rude to have your hair uncovered in public for men and women, though this is not followed as much by the younger generations.  Normally, a woman would tie/keep her hair back and loosely cover it with her dupatta or she may just wear it as a shawl draped loosely over her arms and shoulders.  If she were Muslim and more conservative, she would wrap her dupatta so her hair and neck couldn't be seen at all, to fulfill the requirements of hijab.

15 Minute Kaftan

Materials:

1 dupatta (make sure you have one wide enough to generously fit your body and long enough for the length you want.)

thread

sewing machine

scissors

Instructions:

Fold the dupatta lengthwise in half.  It should be wide enough for a loose garment and long enough as well.  I like knee length and they are normally perfect for that.  If you want a dress length, you will have to look for a longer dupatta.

Sew up each side starting at the bottom, stopping 10 inches below the fold.  That is your arm hole.  Do the same on the opposite side.

Fold in half widthwise.  Measure 4 inches out from the folded point along the folded edge at the top.  Mark the spot on each side.  Mark 3 1/2 inches down from the center point.  Fold all the markings together, making a triangle point.  Cut from one mark to the other.  You now have a neck hole.

There are two important details which make this a 15 minute project.  The first is that you plan to wear it under a hijab, so the neckline will be hidden.

Second it that the fabric is a kind that doesn't unravel easy.  Many dupatta are made out of a thin polyester.  These are perfect.  The edges do not unravel easily and can be finished by burning them with a lighter.  Of course, this doesn't look the prettiest, but it works and won't be seen with a hijab.

Other dupattas, especially cotton ones, will unravel and present more of a problem.  Then it isn't a 15 minute project anymore.

If you have the right kind and don't mind the "unfinished" neckline, you are done!

See the fun beaded edge along the bottom?

If you want a more finished neckline, read on...

You have two options:

1.) A hand sewn, rolled hem.  This is actually very easy to do.  But I must admit that I have a lot of experience with hand sewing.  I once made a reproduction 1860's corset entirely sewn by hand.  So to me a hand rolled hem is nothing, but I do think it is fairly easy if you have some experience.  Here are some good instructions.  And a video:

2.) A bias tape covered hem.  You can buy double folded bias tape anywhere they sell sewing supplies.  I get mine at Walmart.  Here are instructions for doing this kind of neckline.

3.) A normal neckline is done by adding pieces called "facing" that fold along the seam and hang inside the garment. Normally the same fabric is used so the neckline looks finished and the facing is basically invisible.  In this case (since you don't have extra fabric), if you have some fabric scraps that blend (or don't, since your neckline will be hidden by your hijab) and are a similar weight fabric (that is important or the facing won't hang right), you can add in a facing to finish the neckline.  Here are instructions on how this works.  You do not need a pattern for cutting facing pieces.  Just trace the neckline as perfectly as you can.  Then cut a couple inches around the neckline.  You will be doing the facing in two pieces.  Sew the pieces together at the short ends (normally the top of the shoulder).  Then pin the neckline edge to the neckline of the kaftan.  Sew the neckline and facing together, right sides together.  Iron, folding the facing to the inside, wrong sides together.  Keep in mind that this method should only be used with opaque dupattas.  The facing will show through otherwise.  This video does a fantastic job of showing you how it works.

So now you have a new kaftan!  You can wear it as a house dress or layer it as a jilbab.  I love to wear them with loose pants and a turtleneck, a cardigan or jacket over the top.  In the summer they are a cool jilbab worn with loose cotton or linen pants and a long sleeved t-shirt or light cardigan.  And since they are so affordable, you can have a whole wardrobe of colorful overgarments!

Worn with a short-sleeved cardigan.  It looks even better when I wear a black turtleneck!

With a long. black vest over the top.  But one that wasn't long enough to wear on it's own.  In this way, I got to save a piece a clothing that normally I couldn't wear anymore!

With my favorite jean jacket.