Sew a Jilbab From an Abaya for an Interview

The last five months have been crazy!  First, I got married.  Then I got really sick.  I mean really sick.  Off of work.  Multiple trips to the doctor.  I was sick for seven long weeks.   In that time I also got a new job (which I had applied for before I got sick).  Alhamdullilah I got better just before we moved into our new house!  I had to unpack.  I left my new job.  I left because I didn't like juggling two part-time jobs (among other reasons).  I decided to find full-time work and that leads me to today's blog post...  sewing a jilbab for an interview from an existing abaya.  Since I wear hijab, I can't just go to a department store and pick up a suit for an interview.  Plus I am plus sized, making things even harder.  I had to get creative.  

This all started when I sent in my resume and was just hoping for an interview.  I knew I would need something to wear.  I have clothes for work, but nothing I thought would be good for an interview.  Plus, since I only recently started wearing an outer garment, a jilbab, as part of my hijab (see my post about hijab to learn more about this) I don't have a lot of choices.  This was the perfect opportunity to have the jilbab of my dreams.

So I shopped.  And shopped.  And shopped some more.  All online, of course.  I live in rural Wisconsin.  There are no Muslim clothing stores in the area.  I have to travel 2 hours to get to one in Madison.  And they do not carry what I was looking for.  And I was pretty sure that even if I drove to Chicago itself, I would have a hard time finding what I was looking for.  Mainly I figured this because I have had such a hard time finding it online!

Coat style jilbabs are not easy to find in plus sizes.  And that is what I wanted.  A button down, full length, summer weight jilbab, preferably with A line styling.  And not in what most websites consider "plus size" (AKA XL).  I am a bigger girl than that!

First, I must say that if Shukr would increase their range of sizes, I would purchase from them in a heartbeat.  I love most of their stuff and they have exactly what I was looking for.  But alas, they only have sizes for the slender among us.

I considered East Essence.  I have purchased from them before and am familiar with their quality.  I H.A.T.E. their koshibo fabric, though I read that it may have changed for the better since I last ordered it two years ago.  Other items of theirs I have, love, and wear all the time.  They have a jilbab that I am interested in, but I had read it is not really a summer weight so I am saving it for later.  Also, it takes time to get their stuff since it is custom made and shipped from India.  I hoped I didn't have time for that!  I wanted an interview NOW.

I like some of the stuff from Islamic Attire but they have the same problem as East Essence... the custom making and shipping from India.  So again, I will save them for a later date.

Then I looked at Plus Size Muslimah.  I had never purchased from them nor had ever heard from anyone who had.  Their website certainly is attractive.  As are their designs.  I had admired several of their abayas for a long time but had never bought anything.  Now, I saw that they had several designs on sale for $19.99, including the Colorblock Abaya.  Unfortunately, it only came in a 7X.  That is more than double the size I needed.  But gazing longingly at the picture of this handsome abaya, I had an idea.  I saw a button down jilbab made from this abaya.  The same lovely colorblock design.  The same attractive summer weight fabric.  The same conservative, interview worthy colors.  But with black buttons running down the front, creating the button down coat I longed for.

Picture used with the permission of www.plussizemuslimah.com

I figured that if I ordered a size so much larger than my own, I would have plenty of fabric to work with.  I hemmed and hawed and finally dove in and ordered it.  I considered ordering more of their products at the same time but I try to order small the first time I order from a company so if I am unhappy I am at least unhappy at a smaller dollar amount.

There was no need to worry.  My package came lightening quick!  And it was packaged beautifully.  Even wrapped with a pretty ribbon.  The abaya itself, though way too big for me, was very well made and of a beautiful fabric.  Light yet opaque.  Perfect for summer.  Perfect for the project.

For this project I had to enlist a helper.  My good friend Kim became my assistant.  By this time, I had the interview!  We had only three days to complete the project.

The first evening we laid the abaya out on the floor.  We laid one of my frequently worn abayas on top of it to compare the sizes.  Wow.  We certainly had plenty of fabric to work with.

The first job was to cut up the middle of the front so we could make the front opening.  After a moment's hesitation, Kim cut right up the center.

Next we pinned each side to create the placards.  I put more fabric on the inside edge of the inside flap so that if there was gaping while wearing it, it would be less likely you could see through the gap as the extra fabric will help fill it.

After carefully pinning the front, I tried it on.  I knew I wanted an A line silhouette.  So wearing the abaya inside out, Kim pinned in the waist.  I wanted it loose enough for hijab standards, but without a lot of excess fabric in the waist.  My bust and hips are much larger than my waist.  I do not want to emphasize my shape, but I cannot stand too much excess fabric bulking up under my arms.  I was looking for a nice, clean diagonal line out from my armpit, skimming over my hips, and to the floor.

The first sewing I did was sewing in that fabric on the sides.  Then I sewed up the placards.  Once they were sewed, it was easier to try on.  So far, I was very pleased.

In front of the TV that night, I sewed on the buttons.  Then I hand sewed the buttonholes.  I chose to do them by hand because (and this is my dirty little secret) I have never sewn a buttonhole by machine.  Gasp!  Honestly, I don't really feel like a real seamstress without that experience, but there it is.  In the end, I was very pleased.  The hand done ones turned out perfectly.  My two tips are using a razor blade to cut the hole instead of a scissors and using embroidery cotton instead of sewing thread.

Once I could button it and see how it hung while wearing it, it was possible to do the hem.  I wanted a hem that just skimmed the floor.  The week before I had seen at the Masjid some women with lovely jilbabs that were that length and loved the look.  I believe the only foolproof way to do a hem, especially one like that where there is no room for error, is to pin it while wearing it.  Once again, my assistant helped me, doing a wonderful job pinning it.

I didn't actually sew the hem as I hate a noticeable hem seam and I didn't really have the time to do a hand sewn one.  Instead I used iron on hem tape.  That stuff is awesome and is very easy to use!

I took in the arms and shortened them as well.

Afterwards, I was pleased as punch!

How I looked the day of the interview.

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Thank you to my wonderful assistant and fabulous friend, Kim!!!  I honestly could not have finished this project without you.

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After notes:

I always like to talk about what I wish I had done different and if I am pleased with the project.  With this one, yes, I am pleased.  Very pleased!  I wear this jilbab A LOT!  The only thing I would have done different is the hem.  I think it looks really good at that length, but I step on the front of it all the time.  I am not sure how to fix it other than just making it shorter.  I am still considering the situation.

The abaya itself that I used was really nice.  The construction was too good!  I felt bad cutting it apart it was made so well.  The seams were all french seams, not serged.  A more expensive way to do them because they take more fabric and more time, but they last much longer.  And are perfect for plus sized ladies because they can take more stress and wear.  The fabric is wonderful.  I know it doesn't look that light but it is and yet still opaque.  Despite the dark color I am finding it quite comfortable for summer.

Plus Size Muslimah as a company impressed me a lot.  My order came lightning fast!  The picture above shows how nicely it was wrapped.  When I contacted them to ask their permission to use the above picture, they were very excited and offered to help me any way they could.  From this abaya alone, I believe that this company understands the needs of plus sized Muslim women for their clothing.  I will definitely be ordering from them in the future.

Please let me know what you think!  Do you like coat style jilbabs?  Do you have a hard time finding plus-sized Muslim clothing?  

Refashion: Scarf Tunic

Hijabis end up with LOTS of scarves.  We buy them because we need them.  We buy them because we want them.  We buy them because we can't pass up such a good deal.  We buy them for that special event.  We buy them because we want to try a new wrapping style and need a new shape, print, fabric, etc. to accomplish it.  We are given them by friends and family cleaning out their closets.  We find them at thrift shops and figure someone could use it, even if we don't care for it.  We make them from a cool tutorial we found on the internet and just had to try.  We buy them because it is a new season.  (Spring and fall always do that to me!)  We buy them to match a new outfit.  We buy them because when you wear them everyday, they are the first thing people notice about you.  And few women like to wear the same thing everyday.  Since they are much less expensive than actual clothes, it is possible to have an entire wardrobe of scarves and just a few jilbabs and still look like you rarely wear the same thing.   

Since we end up acquiring so many, and really only have a few favorites we wear on a regular basis, we are left with quite a few that sit there unused, unloved, forgotten.  Just waiting for their owner to have some inspiration on how they can be put into service again.  Here is one idea... sew a scarf tunic.   

This is very similar to my last tutorial, Refashion: 15 Minute Kaftan.  In that one, you took a dupatta, folded it in half, sewed up the sides, and cut a neck hole to make a garment.  In this one, you combine two square scarves to be the front and back of your garment to make a scarf tunic.  So this time you will need to sew along the shoulders as well, but you will have a finished neck hole without any work.

MATERIALS:

2 scarves (see below for a discussion on size, etc.)

thread

scissors

sewing machine

INSTRUCTIONS:

1.

Choose your scarves.  I chose two 35" square scarves with matching patterns.  But why limit yourself and be like me?  The first thing to consider when choosing your scarves is size.  The width of the scarves will be half the circumference of your garment.  So combined, the width of both scarves must equal a measurement larger than the widest section of your torso.  That is usually your bust or your hips.  For me it is my hips, ugh!

Measurements labeled B and F are the only ones you need for this project.

  Remember when you measure yourself to measure while sitting down.  Your measurements can change dramatically while sitting, especially your hips, but your bust also.  Trust me.  I learned this lesson the hard way.  The first time I sat in an outfit I measured only while standing, I split the sides!  What a waste of time, fabric, and hope.

Everyone knows that when you try on jeans you need to sit down in them to make sure you won't pass out, LOL!  Same here.  But no passing out.  If you are a slim gal, you probably don't need to worry about this as any scarves large enough for this project should be plenty big for you.  But if you are plus sized, you need to make sure your scarves will give you enough room.  New clothes are no joy if you have to worry about how they fit.  Swallow any guilt you may have and remember that there is no "size" for this garment since you are making it yourself.  It is made in the size that Allah made you.

So make sure you choose scarves whose combined widths equal the measurement around the widest part of your body (bust or hips).

Important also is the length.  I made this using square scarves, but there is no reason you couldn't use rectangles and have the tunic be longer, more like a kaftan.  Or even have different lengths!  Longer in back and shorter in front?  Go wild!

Next you need to think of pattern/color.  I used two turkish style square "satin" (not real satin by any stretch of the imagination) scarves.  Most of these style scarves are patterned.  I chose two that were identical, but next time I want to mix it up!  Mix two different patterns but same colors.  Or have a patterned one for the front and a coordinating solid for the back.  

This is a real Hermes scarf.  I wouldn't recommend using anything like this.  But the shape and idea is the same.

The materials you use can affect your look.  Satin is a bit more dressy.  Cotton will be more casual and sporty.  Also, be aware of your hijab.  Be careful of fabrics that are see through or too clingy.  Also of size.  You want it to be baggy enough to be modest.  I like to wear a loose chain belt over it to help avoid the "garbage bag" syndrome.  If you have smaller waist than bust/hips, you will probably want to give it a little shape with a belt or a cardigan over it.  Length is also important.  You want to make sure your arwa is covered, if this is the longest garment you have on.  Of course, you could make it shorter and layer it.  But if not, make sure if covers past your crotch.  A 35" square covered me fine, but I am only 5'4".  So keep that in mind.

2.  

Make it.  

It is really that easy.  Do I need to say more?

OK, I will go through the steps since this really isn't a tutorial without them.  ;)

Pin the sides together (right sides together), stopping 10" from one edge for the arm holes.  Then, on the other side of that open edge, around the corner, pin shut leaving 10" open in the center for your head.  Now, wherever you pinned,sew it.  Now you are done.  Cut your strings and try it on!

Sew where the yellow lines are.  Easy peasy!

See, even easier than the dupatta kaftan!  You didn't believe me, did you?

NOTES:

If you don't have a sewing machine, you could hand sew this easily.  It will just take longer. Whip stitch along the edges of the scarf using small stitches for strength.

Do not try using any "no-sew" techniques like iron on tape or fabric glue.  I tried.  The seams popped open when I sat down.  There just is not enough strength in any of those methods to put up with the stress a garment goes through at the seams of the bust and hips.

And here are my pics!

 Worn just plain.  Warning!  Garbage bag look.  Not good on me.

 Much better with a loose chain belt.  Not too tight that it negates my hijab.  

 My favorite way it wear it is layered.  This is under my favorite jean jacket.

 More jean jacket.

Under a cardigan.  An easy way to add length while layering.

My favorite way to wear a scarf tunic is layering it.  Here you see winter layering.  A turtleneck and a jacket or cardigan.  But it can work in summer as well.  A long sleeve t-shirt underneath or a light jacket or cardigan on top.  I would choose one of the other in hot weather.  But this is a fun, easy, inexpensive way to add length from the waist in a Western wardrobe.  Perfect for new hijabis!

Refashion: 15 Minute Kaftan

I love dupattas because of their beautiful colors, fabrics and decorations!  But I do not like to wear them on my head.  There is just too much fabric there.  I am not good at wrapping them and normally end up with a wad of wrapped fabric at my throat choking me!  I hate that.  

So I have all these amazing dupattas I kept telling myself I should resell but I just couldn't do it.  Then I thought up this idea... making them into a kaftan.

This project literally can take you 15 minutes.  This isn't one of those internet promises where the person claiming it is a way more experienced crafter or just suffers from what my family calls "time fantasies".  This literally took me 15 minutes this morning. 

BUT, you must have the right materials and the right kind of fabric for it to be a 15 minute project.  Otherwise it could be longer.

You are basically sewing up the sides of a large dupatta, leaving openings for arms, and cutting a hole for the neck.  Viola.  That is it.  You probably don't even need to keep reading.

A dupatta is a type of veil worn mainly in India, Pakistan, Nepal, Sri Lanka, and Bangladesh.  They are extremely beautiful, being very colorful and/or richly embroidered and/or beaded.  Usually they are of quite thin fabric since the areas where they are from are commonly quite hot.  But they also come in thicker fabrics like woven wool as it can be quite cold in the mountains in the winter.

I have bought all of my dupattas off of eBay (except the pink one I used here, that was a gift from a friend).  There are some nice sellers that specialize in selling vintage items from India.  I have gotten dupattas for only $7 apiece for simpler ones and even as little as $25 for very fancy ones.

CBazaar is another affordable place to buy dupattas.  I have never purchased from them and cannot comment on their service.  If you have dealt with them or have any other good sources, please share in the comments.

Dupattas are not always worn as hijab. Meaning they are not always worn to conceal what a hijabi wants to conceal.  Many of them are thin fabric that can become form fitting (especially as a kaftan) or are see through.  So keep that in mind when buying them or planning how you will wear them.  A see through one may be beautiful over a long-sleeved, full-length abaya but not so much over a shirt and pants.  One that is thin and hugs your curves too much may work if worn under a long cardigan and layered.

Dupattas normally are part of a pants set called a Salwar Kameez.  The Salwar are loose cotton pants worn under the Kameez, which is a tunic (or longer) length top.  The dupatta is then worn draped alternately around the head, shoulders, arms and chest. 

In Pakistan and India, it is seen as rude to have your hair uncovered in public for men and women, though this is not followed as much by the younger generations.  Normally, a woman would tie/keep her hair back and loosely cover it with her dupatta or she may just wear it as a shawl draped loosely over her arms and shoulders.  If she were Muslim and more conservative, she would wrap her dupatta so her hair and neck couldn't be seen at all, to fulfill the requirements of hijab.

15 Minute Kaftan

Materials:

1 dupatta (make sure you have one wide enough to generously fit your body and long enough for the length you want.)

thread

sewing machine

scissors

Instructions:

Fold the dupatta lengthwise in half.  It should be wide enough for a loose garment and long enough as well.  I like knee length and they are normally perfect for that.  If you want a dress length, you will have to look for a longer dupatta.

Sew up each side starting at the bottom, stopping 10 inches below the fold.  That is your arm hole.  Do the same on the opposite side.

Fold in half widthwise.  Measure 4 inches out from the folded point along the folded edge at the top.  Mark the spot on each side.  Mark 3 1/2 inches down from the center point.  Fold all the markings together, making a triangle point.  Cut from one mark to the other.  You now have a neck hole.

There are two important details which make this a 15 minute project.  The first is that you plan to wear it under a hijab, so the neckline will be hidden.

Second it that the fabric is a kind that doesn't unravel easy.  Many dupatta are made out of a thin polyester.  These are perfect.  The edges do not unravel easily and can be finished by burning them with a lighter.  Of course, this doesn't look the prettiest, but it works and won't be seen with a hijab.

Other dupattas, especially cotton ones, will unravel and present more of a problem.  Then it isn't a 15 minute project anymore.

If you have the right kind and don't mind the "unfinished" neckline, you are done!

See the fun beaded edge along the bottom?

If you want a more finished neckline, read on...

You have two options:

1.) A hand sewn, rolled hem.  This is actually very easy to do.  But I must admit that I have a lot of experience with hand sewing.  I once made a reproduction 1860's corset entirely sewn by hand.  So to me a hand rolled hem is nothing, but I do think it is fairly easy if you have some experience.  Here are some good instructions.  And a video:

2.) A bias tape covered hem.  You can buy double folded bias tape anywhere they sell sewing supplies.  I get mine at Walmart.  Here are instructions for doing this kind of neckline.

3.) A normal neckline is done by adding pieces called "facing" that fold along the seam and hang inside the garment. Normally the same fabric is used so the neckline looks finished and the facing is basically invisible.  In this case (since you don't have extra fabric), if you have some fabric scraps that blend (or don't, since your neckline will be hidden by your hijab) and are a similar weight fabric (that is important or the facing won't hang right), you can add in a facing to finish the neckline.  Here are instructions on how this works.  You do not need a pattern for cutting facing pieces.  Just trace the neckline as perfectly as you can.  Then cut a couple inches around the neckline.  You will be doing the facing in two pieces.  Sew the pieces together at the short ends (normally the top of the shoulder).  Then pin the neckline edge to the neckline of the kaftan.  Sew the neckline and facing together, right sides together.  Iron, folding the facing to the inside, wrong sides together.  Keep in mind that this method should only be used with opaque dupattas.  The facing will show through otherwise.  This video does a fantastic job of showing you how it works.

So now you have a new kaftan!  You can wear it as a house dress or layer it as a jilbab.  I love to wear them with loose pants and a turtleneck, a cardigan or jacket over the top.  In the summer they are a cool jilbab worn with loose cotton or linen pants and a long sleeved t-shirt or light cardigan.  And since they are so affordable, you can have a whole wardrobe of colorful overgarments!

Worn with a short-sleeved cardigan.  It looks even better when I wear a black turtleneck!

With a long. black vest over the top.  But one that wasn't long enough to wear on it's own.  In this way, I got to save a piece a clothing that normally I couldn't wear anymore!

With my favorite jean jacket.