Sew a Jilbab From an Abaya for an Interview

The last five months have been crazy!  First, I got married.  Then I got really sick.  I mean really sick.  Off of work.  Multiple trips to the doctor.  I was sick for seven long weeks.   In that time I also got a new job (which I had applied for before I got sick).  Alhamdullilah I got better just before we moved into our new house!  I had to unpack.  I left my new job.  I left because I didn't like juggling two part-time jobs (among other reasons).  I decided to find full-time work and that leads me to today's blog post...  sewing a jilbab for an interview from an existing abaya.  Since I wear hijab, I can't just go to a department store and pick up a suit for an interview.  Plus I am plus sized, making things even harder.  I had to get creative.  

This all started when I sent in my resume and was just hoping for an interview.  I knew I would need something to wear.  I have clothes for work, but nothing I thought would be good for an interview.  Plus, since I only recently started wearing an outer garment, a jilbab, as part of my hijab (see my post about hijab to learn more about this) I don't have a lot of choices.  This was the perfect opportunity to have the jilbab of my dreams.

So I shopped.  And shopped.  And shopped some more.  All online, of course.  I live in rural Wisconsin.  There are no Muslim clothing stores in the area.  I have to travel 2 hours to get to one in Madison.  And they do not carry what I was looking for.  And I was pretty sure that even if I drove to Chicago itself, I would have a hard time finding what I was looking for.  Mainly I figured this because I have had such a hard time finding it online!

Coat style jilbabs are not easy to find in plus sizes.  And that is what I wanted.  A button down, full length, summer weight jilbab, preferably with A line styling.  And not in what most websites consider "plus size" (AKA XL).  I am a bigger girl than that!

First, I must say that if Shukr would increase their range of sizes, I would purchase from them in a heartbeat.  I love most of their stuff and they have exactly what I was looking for.  But alas, they only have sizes for the slender among us.

I considered East Essence.  I have purchased from them before and am familiar with their quality.  I H.A.T.E. their koshibo fabric, though I read that it may have changed for the better since I last ordered it two years ago.  Other items of theirs I have, love, and wear all the time.  They have a jilbab that I am interested in, but I had read it is not really a summer weight so I am saving it for later.  Also, it takes time to get their stuff since it is custom made and shipped from India.  I hoped I didn't have time for that!  I wanted an interview NOW.

I like some of the stuff from Islamic Attire but they have the same problem as East Essence... the custom making and shipping from India.  So again, I will save them for a later date.

Then I looked at Plus Size Muslimah.  I had never purchased from them nor had ever heard from anyone who had.  Their website certainly is attractive.  As are their designs.  I had admired several of their abayas for a long time but had never bought anything.  Now, I saw that they had several designs on sale for $19.99, including the Colorblock Abaya.  Unfortunately, it only came in a 7X.  That is more than double the size I needed.  But gazing longingly at the picture of this handsome abaya, I had an idea.  I saw a button down jilbab made from this abaya.  The same lovely colorblock design.  The same attractive summer weight fabric.  The same conservative, interview worthy colors.  But with black buttons running down the front, creating the button down coat I longed for.

Picture used with the permission of www.plussizemuslimah.com

I figured that if I ordered a size so much larger than my own, I would have plenty of fabric to work with.  I hemmed and hawed and finally dove in and ordered it.  I considered ordering more of their products at the same time but I try to order small the first time I order from a company so if I am unhappy I am at least unhappy at a smaller dollar amount.

There was no need to worry.  My package came lightening quick!  And it was packaged beautifully.  Even wrapped with a pretty ribbon.  The abaya itself, though way too big for me, was very well made and of a beautiful fabric.  Light yet opaque.  Perfect for summer.  Perfect for the project.

For this project I had to enlist a helper.  My good friend Kim became my assistant.  By this time, I had the interview!  We had only three days to complete the project.

The first evening we laid the abaya out on the floor.  We laid one of my frequently worn abayas on top of it to compare the sizes.  Wow.  We certainly had plenty of fabric to work with.

The first job was to cut up the middle of the front so we could make the front opening.  After a moment's hesitation, Kim cut right up the center.

Next we pinned each side to create the placards.  I put more fabric on the inside edge of the inside flap so that if there was gaping while wearing it, it would be less likely you could see through the gap as the extra fabric will help fill it.

After carefully pinning the front, I tried it on.  I knew I wanted an A line silhouette.  So wearing the abaya inside out, Kim pinned in the waist.  I wanted it loose enough for hijab standards, but without a lot of excess fabric in the waist.  My bust and hips are much larger than my waist.  I do not want to emphasize my shape, but I cannot stand too much excess fabric bulking up under my arms.  I was looking for a nice, clean diagonal line out from my armpit, skimming over my hips, and to the floor.

The first sewing I did was sewing in that fabric on the sides.  Then I sewed up the placards.  Once they were sewed, it was easier to try on.  So far, I was very pleased.

In front of the TV that night, I sewed on the buttons.  Then I hand sewed the buttonholes.  I chose to do them by hand because (and this is my dirty little secret) I have never sewn a buttonhole by machine.  Gasp!  Honestly, I don't really feel like a real seamstress without that experience, but there it is.  In the end, I was very pleased.  The hand done ones turned out perfectly.  My two tips are using a razor blade to cut the hole instead of a scissors and using embroidery cotton instead of sewing thread.

Once I could button it and see how it hung while wearing it, it was possible to do the hem.  I wanted a hem that just skimmed the floor.  The week before I had seen at the Masjid some women with lovely jilbabs that were that length and loved the look.  I believe the only foolproof way to do a hem, especially one like that where there is no room for error, is to pin it while wearing it.  Once again, my assistant helped me, doing a wonderful job pinning it.

I didn't actually sew the hem as I hate a noticeable hem seam and I didn't really have the time to do a hand sewn one.  Instead I used iron on hem tape.  That stuff is awesome and is very easy to use!

I took in the arms and shortened them as well.

Afterwards, I was pleased as punch!

How I looked the day of the interview.

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Thank you to my wonderful assistant and fabulous friend, Kim!!!  I honestly could not have finished this project without you.

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After notes:

I always like to talk about what I wish I had done different and if I am pleased with the project.  With this one, yes, I am pleased.  Very pleased!  I wear this jilbab A LOT!  The only thing I would have done different is the hem.  I think it looks really good at that length, but I step on the front of it all the time.  I am not sure how to fix it other than just making it shorter.  I am still considering the situation.

The abaya itself that I used was really nice.  The construction was too good!  I felt bad cutting it apart it was made so well.  The seams were all french seams, not serged.  A more expensive way to do them because they take more fabric and more time, but they last much longer.  And are perfect for plus sized ladies because they can take more stress and wear.  The fabric is wonderful.  I know it doesn't look that light but it is and yet still opaque.  Despite the dark color I am finding it quite comfortable for summer.

Plus Size Muslimah as a company impressed me a lot.  My order came lightning fast!  The picture above shows how nicely it was wrapped.  When I contacted them to ask their permission to use the above picture, they were very excited and offered to help me any way they could.  From this abaya alone, I believe that this company understands the needs of plus sized Muslim women for their clothing.  I will definitely be ordering from them in the future.

Please let me know what you think!  Do you like coat style jilbabs?  Do you have a hard time finding plus-sized Muslim clothing?  

Refashion: 15 Minute Kaftan

I love dupattas because of their beautiful colors, fabrics and decorations!  But I do not like to wear them on my head.  There is just too much fabric there.  I am not good at wrapping them and normally end up with a wad of wrapped fabric at my throat choking me!  I hate that.  

So I have all these amazing dupattas I kept telling myself I should resell but I just couldn't do it.  Then I thought up this idea... making them into a kaftan.

This project literally can take you 15 minutes.  This isn't one of those internet promises where the person claiming it is a way more experienced crafter or just suffers from what my family calls "time fantasies".  This literally took me 15 minutes this morning. 

BUT, you must have the right materials and the right kind of fabric for it to be a 15 minute project.  Otherwise it could be longer.

You are basically sewing up the sides of a large dupatta, leaving openings for arms, and cutting a hole for the neck.  Viola.  That is it.  You probably don't even need to keep reading.

A dupatta is a type of veil worn mainly in India, Pakistan, Nepal, Sri Lanka, and Bangladesh.  They are extremely beautiful, being very colorful and/or richly embroidered and/or beaded.  Usually they are of quite thin fabric since the areas where they are from are commonly quite hot.  But they also come in thicker fabrics like woven wool as it can be quite cold in the mountains in the winter.

I have bought all of my dupattas off of eBay (except the pink one I used here, that was a gift from a friend).  There are some nice sellers that specialize in selling vintage items from India.  I have gotten dupattas for only $7 apiece for simpler ones and even as little as $25 for very fancy ones.

CBazaar is another affordable place to buy dupattas.  I have never purchased from them and cannot comment on their service.  If you have dealt with them or have any other good sources, please share in the comments.

Dupattas are not always worn as hijab. Meaning they are not always worn to conceal what a hijabi wants to conceal.  Many of them are thin fabric that can become form fitting (especially as a kaftan) or are see through.  So keep that in mind when buying them or planning how you will wear them.  A see through one may be beautiful over a long-sleeved, full-length abaya but not so much over a shirt and pants.  One that is thin and hugs your curves too much may work if worn under a long cardigan and layered.

Dupattas normally are part of a pants set called a Salwar Kameez.  The Salwar are loose cotton pants worn under the Kameez, which is a tunic (or longer) length top.  The dupatta is then worn draped alternately around the head, shoulders, arms and chest. 

In Pakistan and India, it is seen as rude to have your hair uncovered in public for men and women, though this is not followed as much by the younger generations.  Normally, a woman would tie/keep her hair back and loosely cover it with her dupatta or she may just wear it as a shawl draped loosely over her arms and shoulders.  If she were Muslim and more conservative, she would wrap her dupatta so her hair and neck couldn't be seen at all, to fulfill the requirements of hijab.

15 Minute Kaftan

Materials:

1 dupatta (make sure you have one wide enough to generously fit your body and long enough for the length you want.)

thread

sewing machine

scissors

Instructions:

Fold the dupatta lengthwise in half.  It should be wide enough for a loose garment and long enough as well.  I like knee length and they are normally perfect for that.  If you want a dress length, you will have to look for a longer dupatta.

Sew up each side starting at the bottom, stopping 10 inches below the fold.  That is your arm hole.  Do the same on the opposite side.

Fold in half widthwise.  Measure 4 inches out from the folded point along the folded edge at the top.  Mark the spot on each side.  Mark 3 1/2 inches down from the center point.  Fold all the markings together, making a triangle point.  Cut from one mark to the other.  You now have a neck hole.

There are two important details which make this a 15 minute project.  The first is that you plan to wear it under a hijab, so the neckline will be hidden.

Second it that the fabric is a kind that doesn't unravel easy.  Many dupatta are made out of a thin polyester.  These are perfect.  The edges do not unravel easily and can be finished by burning them with a lighter.  Of course, this doesn't look the prettiest, but it works and won't be seen with a hijab.

Other dupattas, especially cotton ones, will unravel and present more of a problem.  Then it isn't a 15 minute project anymore.

If you have the right kind and don't mind the "unfinished" neckline, you are done!

See the fun beaded edge along the bottom?

If you want a more finished neckline, read on...

You have two options:

1.) A hand sewn, rolled hem.  This is actually very easy to do.  But I must admit that I have a lot of experience with hand sewing.  I once made a reproduction 1860's corset entirely sewn by hand.  So to me a hand rolled hem is nothing, but I do think it is fairly easy if you have some experience.  Here are some good instructions.  And a video:

2.) A bias tape covered hem.  You can buy double folded bias tape anywhere they sell sewing supplies.  I get mine at Walmart.  Here are instructions for doing this kind of neckline.

3.) A normal neckline is done by adding pieces called "facing" that fold along the seam and hang inside the garment. Normally the same fabric is used so the neckline looks finished and the facing is basically invisible.  In this case (since you don't have extra fabric), if you have some fabric scraps that blend (or don't, since your neckline will be hidden by your hijab) and are a similar weight fabric (that is important or the facing won't hang right), you can add in a facing to finish the neckline.  Here are instructions on how this works.  You do not need a pattern for cutting facing pieces.  Just trace the neckline as perfectly as you can.  Then cut a couple inches around the neckline.  You will be doing the facing in two pieces.  Sew the pieces together at the short ends (normally the top of the shoulder).  Then pin the neckline edge to the neckline of the kaftan.  Sew the neckline and facing together, right sides together.  Iron, folding the facing to the inside, wrong sides together.  Keep in mind that this method should only be used with opaque dupattas.  The facing will show through otherwise.  This video does a fantastic job of showing you how it works.

So now you have a new kaftan!  You can wear it as a house dress or layer it as a jilbab.  I love to wear them with loose pants and a turtleneck, a cardigan or jacket over the top.  In the summer they are a cool jilbab worn with loose cotton or linen pants and a long sleeved t-shirt or light cardigan.  And since they are so affordable, you can have a whole wardrobe of colorful overgarments!

Worn with a short-sleeved cardigan.  It looks even better when I wear a black turtleneck!

With a long. black vest over the top.  But one that wasn't long enough to wear on it's own.  In this way, I got to save a piece a clothing that normally I couldn't wear anymore!

With my favorite jean jacket.

Refashion: From Abaya to Jilbab

About a year ago I bought this abaya from East Essence.  I ordered the "khaki" color, which is actually a dark army olive green.  And it was... OK.  There is nothing really wrong with it.  I just never felt comfortable with it the way it is.  The fabric is thick and not comfortable for an abaya, I thought.  More suited to a coat than a dress.

I spent about $28 on it, so I didn't want to just get rid of it.  I figured there must be a way to change how I feel about it.

Now, I know you can wear an abaya as a jilbab and that is probably their actual purpose.  But I can't get over my Western idea that an abaya is just a dress.  And this one I felt was uncomfortable as a dress.  So I decided to refashion it into something I enjoy wearing. 

Since I recently started always wearing an overgarment (what I refer to as a jilbab) when out in public, I have been in desperate need of more of them.  No girl likes to wear the same thing day in and day out!  And since I don't have extra money for new clothes, I needed to be creative in how to get some.

So I had an idea for this abaya and when I looked at the structure of it, I saw it would work perfectly!

This abaya buttons from the neck to the waist.  The buttons are hidden behind a placket.  Then there is a fake placket from the waist to the hem.  My plan was to open this fake placket, add closures for the bottom half and shorten it to calf length.

My only worry was the drawstring at the waist.  If the casing for the drawstring was sewn over the seam for that placket (and that connects the two sides of the front together), then I wasn't sure what I would do.  But, mash'Allah, it did not.  There was one clear seam from the open top through to the hem.

I like my jalabib (plural of jilbab) to be openable from the front since I often go places where I may take them off (private residences of family or close friends).  And to me it is weird to go to someone's house to visit and have to pull my jilbab off over my head.  Pulling over my head feels like undressing and makes me stretch in a way I don't want to even in front of people I am related to.  Opening down the front is much more convenient and modest.

Plus, they just feel more like a jilbab to me if they open down the front.  I also prefer them calf length.  I like my pants or skirts showing out the bottom.  Again, to me it seems like more of a jilbab because people can see you have clothes on underneath.  For years I had no idea other muslimahs were wearing more clothes (other than underwear) under their abayas!  And since I live in a predominantly non-Muslim community (so people don't know our clothing customs) and people are supposed to realize we are wearing an OVERgarment (over other clothes), I like to "show" people I am wearing clothes underneath.

Ya ayyuha an-Nabiyy qul li azwajika wa banatika wa nisa al-mu'minin yudnina alayhinna min jalabib hinna; dhalika adna an yu'rafna fa laa yu'dhayn. Wa kana Allahu Ghafur Rahim

O Prophet! Say to your wives and your daughters and the women of the faithful to draw their JALABIB close around them; that is better that they will be recognized and not annoyed. And God is ever Forgiving, Gentle.  

Quran, Surah al-Ahzab ayah 59 (33:59)  

For more info on why I dress the way I do, see my post on hijab.

THE REFASHION:

I was able to open the seam behind the fake placket down the front.  One seam ripper and some mindless TV.  Easy peasy.

Then, instead of actually sewing them (both due to laziness and because I didn't have of that color thread and didn't like the way black looked with the weird olive color of the fabric), I used iron-on hem tape to cover the raw edges from the seam I just opened.

Same stuff I used (but different color).  I picked it up at Walmart for $1.67 a pack.  I used 1 1/2 packs for this project.  Sometimes my laziness is able to overcome my miserliness.

 Here is the hem tape after using it.  Wish I had used a darker color, though.  But since it doesn't show I guess it doesn't matter.

I then measured for shortening it.  I knew I wanted it calf length.  I don't have anyone handy to help me with hems, so I have devised my own do-it-yourself method.

I put on a pair of older knit pants.  Then I put on the garment.  Holding it the best I can to my body (and noting in the mirror where it hits) I bend over and mark with tailor's chalk where the hem lands on my pant's leg.   Then I hike it up to where I want it to land and do the same.

The method isn't the most accurate, but with a jilbab hem you can off by an inch or so and it doesn't matter.

I measure between the two marks on my pants and now I know how much I need to cut off my garment.

For this one I measured 8 inches.  But I have to remember the hem.  I actually removed only 7 inches, leaving room for the hem.  I measured, marked with chalk and cut, moving slowly and carefully around the hem.  It is a wide hem (the skirt is fuller than it looks in the picture above) so it takes patience and care to get it straight.

After it was cut off, I used iron on seam tape for the hem.  Again, laziness and lack of thread.  Plus the stuff is SO easy!  I ironed on the tape along the edge of the hem all the way around.  I peeled off the paper covering, folded it over and ironed it down to complete the hem.  To make it all nice and neat, I also covered the hem's raw edges with the same iron-on hem tape I used earlier.

They call this stuff hem tape too.  I called it seam tape to be clear.  I love this stuff!  

This is NOT how you use it though!

The bottom right edge shows the seam tape (with and without the paper covering still on).  The loose section is the hem tape I placed over the rough edge.

Now I just had to decide how to close the bottom.  I found some pearl covered snaps I really liked, but thought it would be weird for the closures to only show on the bottom half.  So I will save them for my next refashion (I have another "abaya to jilbab refashion" planned!  Check back for it.) 

These are the snaps I rejected.  But I can't wait to use them on my next project!  I think they will be very pretty.

Next I considered hooks and eyes.  But they didn't seem right.  So I went with snaps that you cannot see from the outside.

Hook and eye: nice, but for another project.

Sew in snaps that are unseen from the outside of the garment.  Perfect!

I measured the placket, deciding that the last 6 inches would be open.  I was left with 20 inches.  I decided to have 4 inches in between each snap.  Counting one at the top, I had 6 snaps to sew on.

I measured each 4 inch space and marked it with chalk.  Then I sewed the top (the males) snaps down.

After the tops were finished, I did the bottoms (the females).  To get an accurate spot to sew them to, I rub my tailors chalk on the male side and then carefully pressed it to the side where the female should go.  Left behind was a dot of chalk to show me where to sew the female.

After that, I was done!  

So I wore it... and realized... I had made a mistake.  The snaps popped open so easily.  PLUS, I had used silver ones, figuring so one would see them, but since they popped open easily they were easily seen.  Not good.  Luckily I wore it to an event where I was mostly standing so there was little popping going on.  But I went straight home and planned a fix.

Now I have sewed in hooks and eyes.  I was worried they would be too difficult to open but that is much better than opening too easy! 

I wore it to work as a test.  A much more controlled environment.  Worked great!

I now had a new jilbab.  It doesn't look a whole lot different, except for the length.  But for me it is much easier to wear.  I now have a garment that is a working member of my wardrobe instead of always being pushed to the back of the closet.  Alhamdullilah!

WHAT I WOULD DO DIFFERENTLY:

I figure every project has things you wish you had done differently.  I want to share with you mine, so hopefully you will avoid some of my mistakes.

1.

As I already said, I wish I would have chosen hooks and eyes the first time around.

2.

If I was going to keep the snaps, I wish I would have used black ones.

3.

I wish I would have used hem tape that matched better.  I used some I bought for something else.  It is a light taupe color and is noticeable if the hem flips open/up.  Doesn't happen much, but I am picky.

Lessons learned.

Refashion: Boring shrug robe to fun jilbab!

This is a shrug robe from East Essence.  It is made from a knit fabric.  It costs $19.99.  A good deal.  Right?

I thought so too.  But when I got it, I just wasn't excited by it.  Unfortunately I get that a lot with the clothes from East Essence.  Many of their designs are just not... there.  BUT, their prices are so I can tweak them and add that extra flair!

As I have recently started always wearing a jilbab when going out in public (see my post on hijab to know why and what a jilbab is), I have really needed more of them!

This shrug did the job required of a jilbab if I pinned the front closed.  But I still didn't like the all black.  For an entire year after my late husband passed I wore ALL black and I just can't stomach that much black anymore.  It puts me right back into that grief mindset.

You wouldn't think you would feel all covered in black in this shrug by looking at the picture, but when you pin the front shut and it covers you shoulders to ankles, you are covered in black!

First I needed a new way to close it.  Pinning it was ruining the fabric and was a hassle.  A few times the pin had come open and caused me some embarrassment not to mention pain.

So at Walmart I found these giant snaps.  I think they are fun and perfect for this!

They look just like this and are as big as a quarter!

But I still wanted to liven it up somehow and add some color.  Hmmm...

When I found the snaps I looked at the ribbons.  And there was a pretty satin rainbow diagonal stripe.  

After some consideration I decided to go for it.  Now, this was not a project for a beginner.  And though I don't consider myself a beginning sewer, I am close to it when it comes to sewing knits.  Knits are a whole different ballgame.

I pinned the ribbon to the inner edge of the shrug; from the bottom edge on one side, up to the neck and then down the other side.  

I sewed the ribbon on the edge not on the outer edge first (see pic below), which I DO NOT recommend!  The ribbon and the fabric of the shrug would have been much easier to handle if I had started on the outside edge first.

Then I sewed the snap on at waist level.  The nice thing about this shrug is that when it is closed by just one pin or snap at waist level, it actually stays shut well all the way down.  There is extra fabric that overlaps and keeps it closed.  

I wouldn't recommend wearing anything tight or revealing underneath on the bottom.  I only wear full skirts or loose pants, so I don't worry.

So now I have a new jilbab and a fun one at that!